|A little too frumpy as is.|
|The cute details.|
The lined dress.
As you can see in the above pic. This dress is fully lined and where the hem is turned up hem tape is used to attach the lining to the outer shell of the dress. While not impossible to hem it is a bit more painstaking involving more complicated measuring, and more precise stitching.
A bias cut dress.
Any full skirted dress or circular skirt is cut on the bias. What this means is that the fabric was cut horizontally to the grain of the fabric, so it can't be turned and folded the way we usually assume fabric can be. On a bias cut hem the hem itself is very tiny. The fabric must be tightly folded and the folded again on itself catching as little fabric as possible to avoid buckling. As soon as you cut this fabric it will start to fray and as you try to fold the hem and stitch it down you will start swearing.
It's also important to pay attention to the fabric. Chiffon, silk, and anything slippery is hard to sew with, and anything pleated can be very problematic. So what's the easiest fabric to hem? Polyester, or any other non fraying fabric. The hem should look similar to this. No over-lock or hem tape to be seen. This hem is a simple case of cut and stitch. Pretty much.
Note: A fabric that frays simply adds one more step to the process, but it's not insurmountable. Take heart.
If your fabric needs to be turned under you would turn it up two and a half inches and iron in place. Then go over the hem again and turn half an inch of fabric down inside the hem - and iron that.
Though all the measuring and ironing at this point can seem a bit much it will ensure that you have a really nice smooth hem line and it eliminates the need for pinning.
Now it's time to sew!
With needle threaded - I'm using yellow thread here for contrast, usually on a black dress I'd use black - loop through the seam twice. This eliminates the need for bulky knots. Pick up the fabric from the seam on the skirt as well and you have a good solid base to work from with your thread securely anchored.
A few inches of hem from the inside:
Have fun hemming!